Albania Road Trip Itinerary: Beaches, Mountains & Europe’s Most Exciting Road Trip

Update (Summer 2026):

I first wrote this guide after discovering Albania many years ago, when it genuinely felt like Europe’s best-kept secret.

Since then, tourism has exploded the Albanian Riviera no longer an unknown niche destination, and Albania becoming one of Europe’s hottest new summer destinations.

The good news? It’s still one of my favourite countries to road trip. Sure, on the coast you’ll find more visitors than before, but with that you’ll also find better roads, accommodation and fantastic restaurants, all at prices well below Croatia, Italy and much of Greece.

I’ve now completed two road trips around Albania, most recently in summer 2026, and this guide has been updated throughout with new destinations, revised driving advice and an expanded inland itinerary.

Albania Road Trip Itinerary

As there’s quite a lot to see and do, I’d like to offer 3 different Albania itineraries depending on how much time you have and your travel preferences.

Itinerary 1: Classic Riviera

🗓️ Ideal Duration: 7-8 days

🚗 Perfect for: First-time visitors, beaches, swimming and coastal scenery

📍Route: Tirana → Zvërnec → Llogara Pass → Albanian Riviera → Butrint → Gjirokastër → Berat → Tirana

This road trip itinerary focuses on Albania’s Southern half – for the best of its seaside, mountains and the unique inland cities. It’s best done by car in 7-10 days (of course, add more if you have the luxury of time off!). Starting in Tirana, head anticlockwise along the coast. Or to be honest, a clockwise itinerary works too depending on how desperate you are for the beaches.

Itinerary 2: Mountains & Rivers

🗓️ Ideal Duration: 7–9 days

🚗 Perfect for: Nature, hiking, rivers

📍 Route:
Tirana → Berat → Osumi Canyon → Përmet → Vjosa National Park → Korçë → Tirana

Itinerary 3. Grand Albania (+ Lake Ohrid)

🗓️ Duration: 10–14 days

🚗 Perfect for: Seeing the very best of Albania

📍 Route:
Tirana → Zvërnec → Llogara → Albanian Riviera → Butrint → Gjirokastër → Përmet → Korçë → Lake Ohrid → Tirana

Tirana – the Capital

While by no means the highlight of Albania, the capital Tirana will probably be where you start and end your road trip, so you’ll probably want to spend a night or two in the city.

Tirana is a lively and fast-changing capital with a fairly ugly façade but enough things to visit, savour and drink. While of course it’s nice to give yourself time to explore any city, Tirana could honestly be seen in a day (so that you leave more time for the nicer parts of Albania). Actually, the main highlights can all be done in a big walk.

Starting from the very centre at Skanderberg Square, make your way south past the clocktower to the small but historic Kapllan Psha Tomb.

Then walk down the road to visit a bunker at Bunk’Art 2, an underground history museum and art gallery. In the decades ruled by the paranoid dictator Enver Hoxha, Albania was covered with over 170,000 concrete bunkers, built in fear of enemy invasion that never came (if only the money was spent on better roads…). While Hoxha is long gone,the bunkers remained spread across the country and some – like this one – have been converted.

Walk slightly down to the pedestrian road alongside Tirana Castle (and a good place for outdoor bar & restaurant scene), before turning to walk down to the wide Bulevardi Deshmoret e Kombit. This is the street where most of the government establishments are headquartered, alongside with what is still probably Tirana’s most unusual landmark – the infamous Pyramid of Tirana.

Badly dilapidated on my first visit in 2018, the pyramid has been renovated and is now a cultural hub. What hasn’t changed is you can climb up the pyramid and enjoy a nice 360’ view of Tirana.

Right next to the pyramid, you can properly introduce yourself to the country by enjoying a raki at the Komiteti Kafe-Museum. 

After the pyramid, turn right and walk past Enver Hoxha’s former residence (now also a museu, known as Vila 31 x Art Explora) to make your way to the upscale Blloku neighbourhood. Formerly home of the Communist elite, it’s now the artsy part of town with the best choice of restaurants, cafes and nightclubs. If you plan smartly, it’s the perfect part of town to end up for the evening. 

Finally, if you miss a little greenery or want to see how the locals enjoy their free time by the evening, walk a further 15 mins south from Blloku to the Grand Park of Tirana – the capital’s only major par. It’s got a nice circular lake trail, a Geneva-esque fountain and some lakeside bars ideal for enjoying the sunset.

Where to stay in Tirana

I highly recommend the central neighbourhood of Blloku. It’s super lively with the best selection of bars and restaurants and plenty of accommodation options on the quieter streets, still within easy walking reach to anywhere central. And as a bonus, it’s close to the Grand Park of Tirana – the capital’s only big park with a nice circular lake trail.

Alternatively, stay central (within 10 mins’ walk from Skanderbeg Square) – the great thing about Tirana is it’s very walkable – if you don’t mind the often-intense heat in the summer.

Zvërnec Island

As you make your way south from Tirana, the most worthwhile first stop is at Zvërnec near the seaside city of Vlorë. A wooden footbridge invitingly winds its way to the picturesque Zvërnec Island, home to a tall pinetree forest and a Byzantine-period St Mary’s Monastery. Be sure to stay for some lunch and a glass of local wine in the village of Zvërnec.

As of 2026, Zvërnec and the nearby Sazan Island have been a hot topic – with Trump family trying to build luxury resorts and the Albanians protesting in a hot standoff. Who knows how it all ends up – so visit before it turns into something else!

Llogara Pass

The zigzaggy Llogara Pass connects Vlorë to the Albanian Riviera and is one of the most panoramic coastal drives you’ll come across in Europe. Despite the switchbacks and climbing to over 1,000m, the road is in a good condition and never felt particularly treacherous – so long as you’re not too distracted by the views. And with the new Llogara Tunnel recently opened as the fast alternative, this vastly reduced the heavy slower traffic-  making it an excellent leisurely drive. 

There are a few viewpoint stopping places on the roadside – so be sure to stop and admire the Ionian Sea panorama – the views stretching all the way to Corfu and on the clearest days – apparently even Italy. Look out for the abandoned bunkers along the way.

Albanian Riviera

As you descend down Llogara Pass, you enter the so-called Albanian Riviera. If you’re after beaches, this is the region to spend a large chunk of your holiday. 

Curiously, much of this region feels pretty much exactly like Greece, except cheaper (though that gap is shrinking). The towns of Dhërmi and Himarë, and pretty much everything in-between, are very much Greek in all but official country. Greek place names, Greek churches, countless Greek tavernas, every other guy is named Nikos. Protected by the surrounding mountains, this is the only strip of Albania not conquered by the Ottoman Empire back in the day, thus managing to preserve its Greek identity.

The cute seaside town of Himarë was my personal favourite riviera town, so much so that this is where we came back for the second visit. Despite the recent tourist boom, Himarë remained compact and relatively unspoilt – with its nice promenade full of seafood restaurants and cafes. Besides, it remains a perfect base to explore the countless beautiful beaches, other riviera towns and the mountains.

If I had just one recommendation for your Albania itinerary, it would be that you rent a private (captained) boat from Himara Seas the Day. It’s the original boat tour company in Himarë (many have since sprung up!) and for a reasonable price you get to spend a few fantastic hours exploring and swimming in the crystal clear waters, on secluded beaches, pirate caves and an abandoned submarine bunker at Porto Palermo.

Besides the boat trip, you’re spoilt for choice as far as beaches go. 

Beaches in this region vary widely based on how easy they are to access, and whether they’ve managed to avoid an influx of uncontrolled developers. As such, on the first trip I’d have definitely recommended Jale Beach – but it’s now amidst an uncontrolled villa construction boom and barely recognisable. Drymades and Dhermi beaches, either side of the town of Dhermi, are reaching the same fate – although I’m sure they’re still great in the off-season.

Our favourite beach on the latest visit was Livadi Beach – quiet yet easy to reach either by car or even with a nice coastal walk from Himarë . Himare itself also has two or three easily accessible pebbly beaches, though less appealing for a swim. 

For easy access and plenty of space, you also have the very long beach at the appetisingly-named Borsh further to the south – and a picturesque small bay next to Porto Palermo.

Tip: Look out for beachfront restaurants that have sunbeds. Some are happy to offer free sunbeds and even free parking if you come eat and drink there too – instead of paying €20+ for an umbrella with 2 sunbeds.

Sarandë

The resort town of Sarandë at the southern end of the Albanian Riviera impresses as a tightly-packed, bustling place. It’s the type of place that triples in size in the peak tourist months. Being near many of Albania’s most famous beaches, the Ksamil Islands, Butrint and the Blue Eye, it’s a popular tourist base. Personally though, Sarandë is my least favourite stop on the itinerary as while lively and convenient, I’d rather stay somewhere more quiet like Himare or Qeparo. If you want the nightlife though – Sarande is a great choice.

For sunset, head up the (slightly hair-raising) road to Lekursi Castle – won’t judge if you take a taxi up. It’s an idyllic spot to sip a cocktail and enjoy the sun setting over Sarandë, with the Greek island of Corfu seemingly at touching distance just across the strait. (And yes, you can take a ferry onwards onto Corfu if you feel like combining it into the trip).

In the evening, there’s nothing like a stroll alongside the long seaside promenade and indulging in fresh seafood to make you feel like you’re on a proper Mediterranean holiday. 

Butrint National Park

nce-mighty ancient settlement and now a gem of an archaeological site spread across a peninsula bordering Greece. Expect the full Roman ruin package, enough to be recognised by UNESCO: amphitheater, baths, columns, mosaics.

And try not to make the same mistake as us by turning up to Butrint in peak afternoon heat – with very little in the way of shade to take refuge from it.

Getting to Butrint National Park

Coming from Sarandë, take the inner road SH98, cross the cute ferry and head back the coastal route stopping at some beaches on the way.

The Blue Eye

On the way from Sarandë to Gjirokaster lies The Blue Eye, known here as Syri i Kalter. A deep blue vividly contrasting the shallow turquoise, this natural spring comes from so deep underground that no one knows quite how deep it actually goes. What we do know is that it brings up freezing cold water no matter the season, handy if you feel like a crude break from the searing summer heat (for me, a toe dip sufficed).

Tip: As it’s a small spectacle, crowds build up in the busier summer periods. So head to the Blue Eye first thing in the morning – ideally on a weekday – have a coffee (and maybe a dive!), and when the masses arrive drive onto Gjirokastra or Butrint.

Gjirokastra

This UNESCO-recognised stone city is a must on your Albania itinerary, and a good option for an overnight stay given it’s roughly halfway from the riviera to inland places like Permet. 

The hilly cobbled streets of Gjirokastra all seem to meet at the old bazaar, a buzzing mix of shops selling local (and also Chinese-made) crafts, cute cafes and traditional restaurants. Once you’ve explored the Old Town, take a 10 minute walk up to the fortress that dominates over the city. It’s a sweaty climb in summer heat, but one that’s more than worth it. The corridors of the fortress-turned-museum are nice and cool, the welcome drafts creating an A/C effect. Once cooled off, step out above and enjoy some fantastic views of Gjirokastra and the looming mountainscapes across the valley. 

The fortress is abound with history, too – surviving centuries of invading empires and armies, before being turned into a prison. It was used as one as recently as 1968 by the dictatorship run by Gjirokastra-born Enver Hoxha. Amongst the random collection of captured military artefacts from those days you’ll even find a US fighter plane.

Berat 

If you’re following the first itinerary, drive onto Berat from Gjirokastra, making sure you take the longer-looking route E853 via Fier. You’ll thank me: the tempting SH74 that’s marked an “A” road on the map eventually turns into a rocky gravel track so unless you have a 4×4 – avoid!

Berat is a unique, charming city you might just feel is your favourite in Albania. With its large wooden Ottoman-era windows dominating the hilly cityscape, Berat is literally known as the “City of a Thousand Windows.

When you’ve done wandering the cobbled streets of the old town and the old Gorica Bridge, make your way up to the castle (or what’s left of it) for some incredible views. But why stop that – ever wanted to stay in a castle without paying a fortune? Don’t pass up on the chance to stay in Kris Guesthouse a beautiful stone house right in the heart of the castle. 

Osumi Canyons

A couple hours’ drive from Berat are the incredibly picturesque canyons of the Osum river, the same river that later flows through Berat itself. It’s the most off-the-beaten-track part of this itinerary.

Depending on the time of the year, the river can be perfect for rafting, kayaking or river walking if the levels are low. Having visited in August, we could only opt for the latter – arranged with a company who sorted a guide and transport. We loved the experience as you walk and float on your back past the waterfalls and pristine diving spots. If you’re doing this DIY, stop over for lunch at Bogovë on the way back.

Përmet

The further inland you head in Albania, the less touched by the recent tourist boom the places appear. This is where the real hidden gems of Albania remain, and one I can certainly call such is the town of Përmet, and the surrounding Vjosa valley.

Përmet is both a great base to explore the region and a real foodie highlight. It’s become known as the center of the slow food movement – focused on traditional, locally-made produce. And it certainly didn’t disappoint – most of our favourite meals in Albania were in the restaurants of Përmet. For sweets, I recommend you try the local gliko – a delectable slow-cooked fruit preserve that’s quite different to the usual jams.

Besides the food, the valley town itself is quite nice for a stroll (there’s a nice viewpoint from the big rock you can climb), but for us the real highlight is the surrounding outdoors. The Vjosa river, one of Europe’s last wild rivers, is most famous for its rafting – available to book in quite a few spots near Përmet.

20 minutes’ drive from Përmet in the Lengarica Canyon is a must-experience if you’re in the area – the Benja Thermal Baths. It’s an open-air natural spring right alongside a river with the backdrop of a beautiful footbridge. There are free bathing facilities around 5 minutes walk from the car park, although if you want the hot springs to yourself then keep walking further into the canyon.

If you love peace and quiet, I highly recommend booking a stay at Chri Chri Guest House, in the village of Leus right above Përmet. Nearby is Kisha Shen Maria Leuse – one of Albania’s most famous monasteries with intricate ancient murals. As if wrapped by the surrounding thick forest, it’s like a scene straight out of a fairytale.

Korçë 

The 3-hour drive from Permet to Korçë is a tiring but stunning one, winding in and out of valleys surrounded by Albania’s highest peaks, vast forests and vineyards. At some point along the road SH65, only the river separates you from northern Greece. 

As the terrain finally flattens out, you reach Korce. On first impression, it appears a city long forgotten by time with some of the most dilapidated outskirts you’ll find on this itinerary. Yet by contrast, in the center is one of the country’s most picturesque Old Towns. Korçë is shaped by unusual history. Amongst various empires that came through these lands, it was once under French rule – shaping the architecture and layout of the city’s central square and streets. Now it’s an attractive mix of bazaar and what appears like a vast amount of street-side cafes – in fact it’s known as Albania’s cafe culture capital. Another one to thank the French for!

While Korçë’s location makes it a perfect stop on the way to Ohrid, it’s a charming and interesting town to spend the night or two and just take things very slow.

Lake Ohrid

Surrounded by mountains from all sides, the vast Lake Ohrid is one of the world’s most ancient lakes and one of the real gems of the Balkans. It’s a fantastic destination with a slightly cooler climate than the rest of Albania, and its unbelievably clear water varying from dark blue to turquoise depending on the place and time of day.

I’ll be honest – for this part we crossed the border to North Macedonia – which controls two thirds of Lake Ohrid. We wanted to experience a different country and we had an absolutely fantastic time. I’ll write about that someday, and really recommend staying in and around the town of Ohrid. But if you want to keep things simpler (no border crossings etc), you can stay on the Albanian side instead.

Unfortunately I can’t help with in-depth tips on Albania’s Lake Ohrid, but we did visit the sleepy town of Lin – which is also allegedly the Balkans’ oldest permanently-inhabited village! There really isn’t much to do there other than relax by the lake, eat local food and hire boats to explore the lake – so if you’d like more of an active Ohrid base in Albania, I recommend the bigger town of Pogradec instead.

The Albania road trip loops smoothly with a 2.5 hour route from Ohrid back to Tirana on E852, then the A3 highway via Elbasan.

What’s the best time to visit Albania?

May to July or September are the best months to visit Albania. These months give you a very good chance of sunny, warm or hot days. In August, crowds build up the Albanian coast so I’d avoid if possible – but if you’re more into hiking in Albania’s mountains then it’s a good option for best guarantee of dry sunny weather.

Is Albania safe to visit?

Pretty much. Crime rates are low and the vast majority of locals are very warm and friendly, keen to make your Albanian visit as positive as possible. At no point did we feel any less safe than walking around in London – just keep a wary eye out as you would anywhere else.

That said, when Albanians get behind the wheel, some can be quite aggressive (see below), so take extra care on the roads.

What’s Driving Like in Albania?

Driving in Albania is generally OK – the main thing to watch out for is aggressive, careless drivers. There seems to be an unwritten rule that if you own a big SUV or a fancy BMW then you’re the king of the road. Free from following the usual road rules. So always keep an eye out for someone overtaking 10 cars in a row, random undertaking and cars parked on a highway.

The other one to note is road condition, though having visited in 2026 it’s definitely improved since 8 years earlier. Still, one ‘A’ (“SH”) road can be a brand new, smooth highway and yet another, also marked as a highway, can turn out little more than a boulder-covered dirt road.

Google Maps is usually pretty good at suggesting the proper ‘A’ roads, but to be sure – ask the locals (and save yourself some time having to backtrack like we ended up doing).

Also keep in mind that some of the roads tend to be quite narrow and if hills are involved – also very steep. So if you’re renting a car, I’d recommend an automatic and also making sure you’re fully covered with insurance.

I hope this travel guide helps you plan your trip across this fascinating off-the-beaten-track country. If you have any questions about the Albania itinerary, leave a comment below.

If you’re considering other road trip holiday options in Europe, check out my guide to 9 Wonderfully Affordable Road Trip Destinations in Europe.